Apple Main course of the Month

Photo - see caption

Copyright: bridget gillespie, pomona publications

Pork Stew with Apples and Leeks

serves 4

This recipe is based on the Roman cookery book by Apicius. De re coquinaria (Of Culinary Matters) was written in the first century AD and copied for centuries. In Roman times, this dish was known as Pork à la Matius, named after a friend of Julius Caesar, who grew some of the most famous apple varieties in Roman times. This dish unites the tastes of pork and apple, a combination quite familiar to us. Some of the typical Roman seasonings like honey, fish sauce and lovage sound unfamiliar but, even to modern tastes, render the dish delicious.

500g (1lb) lean pork

runny, clear honey to taste

1 - 2  bay leaves

5 - 6 peppercorns

1 celery stalk, chopped

For the dumplings:

250g (8oz) minced lean pork

1 small egg, lightly beaten

salt and pepper

2 leeks, thoroughly washed and chopped

500g (1lb) apples, peeled, cored and cut into thin slices

2 - 3 tbsp olive oil

250ml (9fl.oz) white wine

balsamico vinegar to taste

2tbsp Vietnamese fish sauce (very similar to the Roman garum)

1 handful of fresh lovage or coriander, chopped

freshly ground pepper to taste

ground cumin to taste

First bring the pork to a boil with a little honey, bay leaves, pepper corns and celery and simmer until tender. Let cool and dice. Reserve the cooking liquid. Then mix the pork mince with salt, pepper and beaten egg and shape into small dumplings about the size of a walnut. Chill.

In a casserole, heat the oil and saute  the boiled and diced pork together with the meatballs. Loosen the pot juices with the wine and add leeks and apple slices together with lovage or coriander. Add enough of the cooking liquid, together with a dash of balsamico, fish sauce and, if you wish, a little honey, to just cover meat, apples and leeks. Bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Season with pepper and cumin. If you find it too bland, add a little salt.